My name is Niall Mackay, your host of A Vietnam Podcast. This is another Saigon Sunday Session joined by my lovely wife, Adrie. As always, we were out for an evening walk with Biscuit and thought it would be the perfect time to turn on the microphones and share some casual musings.
The Saigon River – Now and Then
Saigon’s riverfront is undergoing a stunning transformation, shifting from a neglected space to a vibrant hub for locals and visitors alike. In recent years, city planners – with international input—have revitalized areas once walled off or underused. The promenade near Nguyen Hue Walking Street and upscale establishments like ROS and Clay in District 1 are now popular spots that offer stunning river views and lively atmospheres.
Saigon’s riverfront development reflected the same revitalization seen in other global cities. The Thames in London, the Seine in Paris, and the Yarra in Melbourne all went through industrial periods that left their waterways blackened and unusable. Adrie and I reflected on how Saigon mirrors that global narrative, as it evolves to create cleaner and more attractive riverside spaces. While the Saigon River still had a long way to go, the progress was undeniable, and we were so excited to witness its transformation!
Environmental Issues
Despite these improvements, challenges remain. While the river appears cleaner than in the past, pollution and littering persist, particularly in nearby canals like those in District 4.
One of the most visible issues is the prevalence of littering. A particularly frustrating sight was people discarding trash from motorbikes or cars into waterways, a practice born of a lack of education and enforcement. Even picturesque beaches could be full of plastic pollution, depending on currents and tides.
This issue was not unique to Vietnam; many countries have faced similar problems. In Texas, for instance, the “Don’t Mess With Texas” campaign addressed littering, while Australia imposes strict fines for such behavior. Vietnam, however, was still catching up in terms of awareness and penalties. Encouragingly, progress was being made—schools were educating the next generation on the importance of reducing waste, and awareness campaigns were growing.
Plastic pollution remained a significant challenge, with Vietnam ranking among the top global contributors. Yet there was hope in the small but steady improvements being observed, especially in urban areas like Saigon. With sustained efforts in education and enforcement, the city can continue transforming its riverfront into a cleaner, more enjoyable space for everyone.
I have experience paddling on a SUP on Saigon River, watch this episode now!
Saigon’s Unique Culture
Saigon’s charm lay in its vibrant street culture and the unique places that spring up, seemingly overnight. Walking along the river near Binh Khanh by Night, you’ll find everything from small food stalls selling fried snacks and smoothies to casual setups where you can sip a cold beer while taking in the cityscape. It’s the kind of environment that perfectly captures Saigon’s mix of simplicity and sophistication.
Binh Khanh by Night is an excellent example of this transformation. Once a neglected piece of land by a busy highway, it’s now home to a range of restaurants offering diverse cuisines. There’s Italian fare at Mamma Mia, barbecue grills, and even a cozy food court. While sunsets are typically breathtaking here, sometimes cloudy evenings can obscure the view. However, the ambiance remains unforgettable, with District 1’s skyline—including iconic structures like Landmark 81 and Diamond Plaza—illuminating the backdrop.
Local Favorites
Though the rainy season keeps crowds away, the spot comes alive during the dry season, bustling with diners enjoying Italian pizzas, barbecues, or casual food court bites. With the festive atmosphere enhanced by Christmas decorations, even the off-season holds its unique appeal.
The easygoing vibe at Binh Chanh by Night is best enjoyed with a cold beer. A highlight from this visit was the budget-friendly 29k Budweiser—a unique version brewed with rice in Asia. While it didn’t taste quite like its American counterpart, its light, water-flavored profile was refreshing and perfectly complemented the riverside breeze.
Walking with us here was Biscuit, who recently celebrated her sixth birthday. It struck me that she’s been part of this journey longer than my podcasting career. In the early days, when the setup was basic, she would snooze peacefully beside the guests during recordings.
Check out more craft beer spots in Saigon here!
Conclusion
From its neglected past to its current role as a vibrant hub for leisure, dining, and community, the river reflects the dynamic evolution of Saigon itself.
Exploring the riverfront – whether it’s enjoying the casual charm of Binh Canh by Night, the modern elegance of Clay in Thao Dien, or simply walking along the newly developed pathways – offers a glimpse into Saigon’s unique ability to blend the old with the new.
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