This is me, Niall Mackay, the host of A Vietnam Podcast. I started my podcasting journey in 2019, spreading my love for podcasts and Vietnam.
In this episode, I meet someone for the first time, and I’ll be taking him to what’s known as the most dangerous district in Ho Chi Minh City (or as it’s known locally, Saigon): District 4. Recently, Lydia, a friend of ours, reached out to my wife. She said her friend Nick was coming to Saigon and asked if we’d like to meet him. Of course, we said yes!
The plan was to jump on the bike and start in District 1 before heading to District 4 to explore its grittier, more authentic vibe.
Motorbike Experience in Saigon For The First Time
Nick is from Kentucky, USA, and this was his first time in Saigon. after traveling through Vietnam, starting in the North. He seemed ready for the adventure, so, off we went, weaving through the bustling streets of the city.
First Impression On Saigon
I’m used to the craziness of Saigon, but seeing it through his eyes reminded me of how wild it can seem to outsiders. Nick described the city as “Hanoi on crack,” and I had to laugh because, in a way, that’s exactly it. Saigon has this hyperactive, electrifying vibe that can feel overwhelming at first, but once you start to embrace it, you realize it’s what makes the city come alive. The streets are chaotic, but there’s a rhythm to it. Motorbikes zipping through traffic, street vendors selling everything under the sun, and people rushing around—Saigon never slows down, not even for a second.
We talked about the motorbike culture, something Nick found fascinating and slightly terrifying. It’s not something you see in the U.S., where cars dominate the roads. Here, the streets are a sea of motorbikes carrying everything you can imagine—dry cleaning, food deliveries, and entire families.
I told Nick how much I loved showing people the city because their reactions reminded me of how special it is. Over time, you get used to the madness and forget how unique it all seems to outsiders. Having Nick along for the ride brought back that fresh perspective.
Listen More: I take a tourist to the oldest coffee shop in Ho Chi Minh City
Landmarks in District 1
Onestop was the famous Independence Palace, a place steeped in history. I explained to Nick how the tanks from the North rolled up to its gates on April 30, 1975, marking the end of the Vietnam War.
We also passed the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee building, a grand French colonial-style structure, and Nguyen Hue Walking Street. Nick was blown away by the energy of the city, and honestly, it’s something I take for granted. Seeing his reactions reminded me how vibrant Saigon really is. We weaved through motorbikes, passed locals balancing loads of goods on their scooters, and stopped to marvel at some of the quirks of the city—like an abandoned building in a prime location near the river.
I had an experience exploring Saigon on foot, if you’re interested, check it out here.
District 4 – The Most Dangerous District
District 4 still feels worlds apart from District 1, even though it’s just across the bridge. It’s cheaper, grittier, and more real. When we lived here, it felt a bit rougher, but I’ve noticed some improvements over the years—nicer shops and more development. Still, the heart of the district remains the same.
Memories in District 4
I showed Nick one of the local markets. These markets are everywhere in Saigon, and District 4 is no exception. Back when Adrie and I lived here, we’d shop at markets like this all the time. It was cheap, and we got to know the sellers, like the chicken lady who would always recognize us. It’s where we learned basic Vietnamese, like numbers and the names of foods.
Nick asked if we ever got food poisoning from shopping in places like this. “Never,” I said. I shared a story about how I’d talked to a food scientist on the podcast, and even she couldn’t explain why there isn’t more foodborne illness here. It’s one of those things that makes me think we’re a bit overcautious in the West.
We finally arrived in the heart of District 4 after waiting out a sudden afternoon rainstorm with a glass of nước mía (sugarcane juice). The rain added a different vibe to the streets—everything felt fresh but chaotic as traffic and life resumed. I pointed out a beautiful Buddhist pagoda nearby before taking Nick through some parts of District 4 we hadn’t yet explored.
Unique of District 4
This district has a bit of a reputation, though these days it’s far from dangerous. Years ago, areas like this were a no-go. District 4 was once a hub for gang activity, organized crimes, and other bad things. But it’s different now—grittier than District 1, but also more authentic and real. It’s hard to believe that it’s just across the bridge from the polished, tourist-heavy parts of the city.
I explained how District 4 is famous for its street food, especially ốc (snails). The food streets here come alive at night, with locals and visitors alike enjoying fresh seafood dishes. “It’s really good at night,” I told Nick, though we decided to skip the crowds and keep exploring.
The Lively Life and Street Food In Saigon
The narrow streets were an adventure on their own. I led Nick through tiny alleys where we could see people’s homes and daily life right on the street. “It’s nuts,” I said as we squeezed past a giant taxi stuck in an alley too small for it. Everyone around us had the same look: “What is this guy doing?” But that’s Saigon—chaotic, yet somehow it works.
We stopped at one of my favorite snack spots for bột chiên—fried rice flour cakes with egg, chives, pickled vegetables, and a sweet-savory sauce. I hadn’t had it in ages and was excited to share it. This used to be my go-to when I was trying to bulk up, although I knew it had too much fat and was not healthy. Nick was hesitant at first, but after one bite, he loved it. “Really good,” he said, digging in.
As we ate, I taught Nick a few Vietnamese phrases, including how to say “cheers” in Vietnamese: “Một, hai, ba, dzô!” He laughed, especially when we talked about the differences in pronunciation between the North and South. It was a fun crash course in Vietnamese culture.
Final Thoughts
When I asked Nick what he thought about Saigon, he had nothing but good things to say. “It’s great,” he said. Hearing that made me realize how much I love showing people the real Saigon—the energy, the chaos, and the hidden gems that make this city so special.
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