We’re here every Sunday with a more casual catch-up to bring you the latest stories and perspectives from people living in Vietnam.
I had the chance to sit down with my good friend Paul Villanova and his partner Krista Bernard during one of our Saigon Sunday Sessions, and the conversation quickly turned to their big move from Hanoi to Saigon. Paul and Krista, recently traded life in Hanoi for Saigon, and they’re here to tell us all about the differences between these two iconic cities.
Moving to Saigon – Vietnam through Expats’ Eyes
Krista shared that the move was largely her fault (in her words!). She had been in Hanoi for about three years, while Paul had been there for around five or six. When she started looking for a new job, they had to make a tough decision. She joked about their endless pro-con lists and cue cards—they took their time to figure it all out. At the time, one school in Saigon made her a solid offer, while a potential opportunity in Hanoi was left hanging. It was a classic case of waiting on final offers, comparing salaries, and deciding if it was time to make a move.
Paul’s job situation in Hanoi wasn’t looking too secure either, and as fate would have it, everything lined up. It was like the stars aligned for them. That feeling of uncertainty is something many expats here can relate to—you make these life decisions based on opportunities. Still, sometimes it’s just about the timing and trusting the process.
COVID-19 and the Challenges of Relocating
Krista’s story became even more interesting when COVID-19 came into the picture. She moved to Hanoi during the height of the pandemic, and it was a strange time. Before that, she had been teaching in Abu Dhabi, but her visa got delayed. So, she spent two months teaching remotely from Thailand before finally arriving in Hanoi in October 2021. She got there right in the middle of lockdown, and things were as odd as you might expect. She couldn’t meet her colleagues, didn’t get a tour of the school, and couldn’t even go grocery shopping.
Krista joked that after a few weeks, she started to wonder if she had made a mistake. Imagine moving to a new city but not being able to see or experience it at all. It must have been surreal. Hanoi had its own phases of lockdown, similar to what we went through in Saigon.
Related Episode: Expat Life During COVID
Learning to Ride Motorbikes: A Vietnamese Rite of Passage
One of the funnier parts of our conversation was about learning to ride motorbikes. It’s kind of a rite of passage when you live in Vietnam, but trust me, it’s not something you’re instantly comfortable with—especially if you’ve never done it before.
When Adrie and I first got to Saigon, I swore I’d never ride a motorbike. The traffic looked insane, and I figured we could just take taxis everywhere. It took me about two months before I finally gave in, got a bike, and discovered that the traffic, while chaotic, had its own rhythm. Once you figure out how to go with the flow, it’s actually pretty manageable.
Adrie’s experience was a bit different. It took her about a year before she decided she had to learn. I remember we practiced in this empty lot near Crescent Mall in District 7, and honestly, it was like teaching a kid how to ride a bicycle for the first time—slow, steady, and with a few inevitable falls. One time, she took a turn too slowly, and the bike just tipped over with me and a bunch of groceries on it. We laugh about it now, but it wasn’t funny at the time!
Krista had her own story about learning to ride. She grew up on a farm, so she was already comfortable on motorbikes, but nothing prepared her for the chaos of Hanoi traffic. She started on a semi-automatic bike during COVID, when the streets were mostly empty, so it felt easy at first. But when the lockdown ended and the roads filled up again, it was a rude awakening. She talked about the fear of navigating roundabouts in Vietnam—something that makes all of us nervous—and how the traffic flowed in a way that was both terrifying and impressive.
Culture Differences – Comparison Between Hanoi and Saigon
Reflecting on my conversation with Paul and Krista, it’s clear that while Hanoi and Saigon each bring unique elements to life in Vietnam, they couldn’t be more different in some ways. We got into the details, comparing weather, beer culture, air pollution, and traffic between the two cities, and it’s pretty fascinating how much each factor shapes the feel of life in each place.
Weather
Saigon’s weather stays consistent—it’s hot and humid year-round, which we’ve all adapted to at this point. Hanoi, though, has actual seasons. Krista and Paul talked about Hanoi’s winter months and how the temperature drops, sometimes even making it a bit chilly.
It sounded refreshing compared to the constant tropical heat we had here in Saigon. But, as Krista explained, Hanoi had a downside known as “Moldy March.” Every year around March, the humidity in Hanoi would soar to extreme levels, making everything damp, and as the name suggests, moldy. Clothes, walls, shoes—almost anything indoors—would get covered in a thin layer of moisture that quickly turned to mold if left unchecked.
This was a reality most of us in Saigon rarely had to think about, making Moldy March a uniquely Hanoian challenge.
Beer Culture
When it came to beer culture, Hanoi had something truly unique: bia hoi. Paul and Krista described how these bia hoi spots served up fresh, low-alcohol beer every day for as little as 20–25 cents a glass. These plastic-stool setups were everywhere in Hanoi, bringing people together for a relaxed, affordable night out.
At any given bia hoi, locals and foreigners alike would share tables, drink rounds of fresh beer, and sometimes even get pulled into a shot of rice wine with a friendly stranger. It was a laid-back, communal atmosphere, the kind that made every night feel like a local experience.
In Saigon, there were similar cheap beer spots when I first arrived, but over the years, many had been replaced by upscale cocktail bars and pubs. There weren’t so many places for craft beer and cocktails, but now I can even make episodes about my favorite spots to drink at. That shows the fast development of Saigon and the F&B industry.
The bar scene in Saigon really stepped up, which was great if you were looking for a classy night out, but we’d lost some of that easy-going, budget-friendly hangout vibe that bia hoi culture brought to Hanoi. Sure, there were still some bia hoi places scattered around in Saigon, but they were few and far between, and they just didn’t have that same communal, street-side feel.
Pollution
When we talked about air pollution, Paul and Krista both shared their experiences living in Hanoi and how dramatically different it felt compared to Saigon. Air pollution was a major issue in both cities, but Hanoi’s situation was noticeably worse.
Because the city sat in a basin, pollution tended to settle, especially in winter when coal production ramped up. Paul described how, on his first day in Hanoi, he could see distant mountains from his apartment window—a view that quickly became rare. The mountains only reappeared during COVID when the factories shut down, and the skies cleared.
The three main sources of air pollution in Hanoi, according to Paul, were the sheer number of motorbikes and cars, burning trash and waste, and heavy construction. All of these contributed to the thick, hazy air that hung over the city most of the year.
Hanoi’s air quality index (AQI) is regularly ranked among the worst in the world. At its worst, it could spike above 200 or even higher, often putting the city in the top 10 for global air pollution levels. Paul worked at an international school in Hanoi, where they had their own air quality monitoring system. The policy was to cancel outdoor activities if the AQI exceeded 200 an hour before class.
In Hanoi, wearing masks to combat pollution had been common even before COVID-19. People there had to deal with the pollution so regularly that it became a daily routine to wear masks.
In Saigon, things were noticeably better. The sea breezes helped blow some of the pollution away, keeping the AQI around 60–70 on average, which, while still not ideal, was much lower than Hanoi’s levels. There was a period before COVID when Saigon’s pollution spiked to “Hanoi-esque” levels, and the air was so thick with smog that it felt like the whole city was in a brown fog. On some days, you couldn’t even see the top of Landmark 81, one of the tallest buildings in Saigon, because of the pollution.
For Paul and Krista, moving from Hanoi to Saigon brought a noticeable improvement in air quality, but the memories of living in Hanoi during the worst pollution days, especially in the winter, stayed with them.
Traffic and Transportation
During our conversation, we compared the traffic and road safety between Hanoi and Saigon, two cities where navigating the roads can feel like a completely different experience. Paul, having lived in both cities, shared some fascinating insights into how traffic flows, or sometimes doesn’t, depending on where you are.
In Hanoi, traffic is notoriously chaotic. Paul described it as a “just go” mentality. You’d be sitting at a red light, and even though it’s clearly red, if there’s a gap in traffic, everyone around you would just go. He mentioned friends with Vietnamese partners who would nudge them to keep moving even at red lights. It’s a kind of free-for-all, where the rules feel more like suggestions than laws. Over time, this driving style becomes normal, and as Paul said, you just get used to it.
Meanwhile, in Saigon, the situation is somewhat different. Over the years, the roads in Saigon have improved dramatically. When I first arrived, there were no median strips, and during rush hour, bikes and cars would spill over onto the opposite side of the road. It was chaotic, especially at major intersections where the absence of proper traffic management led to mass congestion. Now, things are much more streamlined, with clearer lanes, median strips, and fewer intersections clogging up traffic flow.
Helmet Culture and Road Safety
Another key difference between the two cities is helmet use. In Saigon, helmets are now mandatory for everyone, and it’s rare to see people riding without one.
However, when Paul and Krista lived in Hanoi, helmets were far less common, especially for children. Paul shared how shocked he was to see entire families on a motorbike, with the kids often standing in front without helmets.
One of the things that surprised me was the lack of helmet laws for children under six years old in Vietnam. According to Paul, there’s no legal requirement for children that young to wear helmets, which may explain why so many kids are seen riding on bikes without them.
However, people now are more aware of protecting themselves and others. By the time they left Hanoi, more adults were wearing helmets, and traffic police were beginning to crack down on helmet usage and other traffic violations. Krista even noticed police conducting breathalyzer tests in Hanoi for the first time in years, which was a new development.
Paul shared that, despite living in Hanoi for five years, he had never once been breathalyzed, but since moving to Saigon, he had been tested three times. It highlighted how enforcement was stricter in Saigon, where traffic laws were more closely monitored.
Food Culture: A North-South Showdown
One thing Paul and Krista agreed on was that the food in Hanoi was fantastic, even if Hanoi required a bit more patience to fully appreciate. Paul raved about bún chả, Hanoi’s signature dish of grilled pork and noodles, and mentioned how easy it was to find high-quality, affordable Vietnamese food on nearly every corner. He felt the food in Hanoi had a more “authentic” feel to it, with less Western influence in flavor and presentation.
Krista noted that in Hanoi, even in expat-heavy neighborhoods, she felt surrounded by Vietnamese street food, markets, and fresh ingredients.
In contrast, Saigon’s food scene offers a mix of both Vietnamese and international options, reflecting the city’s more modern, cosmopolitan feel. Here, it’s easy to find street food but just as easy to stumble upon trendy international restaurants.
Related Episode: What Food I Eat In Vietnam
Building Relationship: Hanoi vs Saigon
In Hanoi, building relationships takes time. Krista shared that people in Hanoi may come across as reserved or cautious at first. However, once people do warm up to you, it’s like being welcomed into a family. Krista described how locals would go out of their way to help and take care of you once they felt a bond.
In Saigon, things felt more immediate. People here are friendlier and more open from the get-go, likely because of the city’s big, bustling nature and its reputation for progressiveness. But as I pointed out, while people are approachable and polite in Saigon, they might not always welcome you into their inner circle right away. It’s like any big city, where everyone’s used to moving fast and the idea of “close” relationships can sometimes mean more casual acquaintances.
Conclusion
Hanoi and Saigon each offer a unique atmosphere and culture that reflect Vietnam’s diversity. For those drawn to deep-rooted traditions, close-knit communities, and a slower, more introspective lifestyle, Hanoi might be the place to settle.
In contrast, Saigon is dynamic, fast-paced, and more open to the world. It’s a city that buzzes with energy and constant change, making it ideal for those who appreciate modern conveniences, international influences, and a warm, tropical climate year-round.
My guests and I hope this post provides insight into both cities, helping you decide which one aligns best with your lifestyle.
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