Hoi An and Da Nang are two of my favorite places in Vietnam. This time, I had the pleasure of speaking with Faryl Cat Hoang, someone who didn’t just visit—she made Hoi An her home.
My name is Niall Mackay, and this is A Vietnam Podcast. I have a passion for podcasts and Vietnam, so that’s why I started doing podcasting in 2019.
In our conversation, we talked about what it’s like to live in Hoi An, the charm of the old town, some travel tips, and how she went from a backpacking trip to building a life in Vietnam.
Coming Back To Vietnam
Faryl Cat Hoang had a life in San Francisco, a city many consider one of the greatest in the world. But like many Viet Kieu, she felt the pull of self-discovery and wanted to explore her heritage.
The rising cost of living in San Francisco also played a role in her decision to move. What was supposed to be a short visit turned into something permanent—she’s been in Vietnam ever since.
Faryl’s father was born and raised in Nha Trang, and she had visited a few times as a child. But the Vietnam of her childhood was nothing like the country she lives in today. The country has developed rapidly, with booming economic growth and modern conveniences. But she still holds onto memories of “old-world Vietnam”—a time when bicycles ruled the streets, cyclos were actual taxis, and things moved at a slower pace.
When she told her family she was moving back, her dad’s first reaction was confusion. Like many Southern Vietnamese, he had fled as a boat person, risking his life for a better future. The idea that his daughter would willingly return to the place he had escaped was difficult to understand at first. But after visiting her, he saw Vietnam in a new light—not just as a place of memories and hardship, but as a country with a high quality of life and new opportunities.
Finding a Home in Hoi An
Faryl’s journey to Vietnam started like many others—a plan to travel for six months, explore Southeast Asia, and then move on. She began her trip in Saigon, staying with family to get settled. Like most backpackers, she eventually bought a motorbike and started heading north. But when she arrived in Hoi An, something felt different. It wasn’t just another stop on the itinerary—she could actually see herself living there.
Of course, it’s easy to romanticize a place when you’re just passing through, but the feeling stuck. By the time she reached Hanoi, she knew she wanted to stay in Vietnam. She settled in the capital, set up a small home salon, built a great community, and even met her husband.
Then, 2020 happened. Vietnam went through various lockdowns, and life in Hanoi started to feel restrictive. The idea of being cooped up in a city for who-knows-how-long wasn’t appealing, so she and her husband packed up their things, grabbed their dogs, and—quite literally—escaped in the dead of night, making their way south to Hoi An. They’ve been there ever since.
Living in Hoi An has been a dream in many ways, but it comes with its own challenges. Unlike Saigon or Hanoi, it doesn’t have big shopping malls or large supermarkets. Even basic conveniences like a proper grocery store are missing. But for Faryl, that’s part of the charm. After years of city life, slowing down felt right. The beaches, the lantern-lit old town, the peacefulness—it was exactly what they needed, especially after the chaos of the pandemic.
Listen to the episode about Hanoi and Saigon here: Hanoi Vs Saigon: Comparing between 2 big cities in Vietnam
Exploring Hoi An: Life & Travel Tips
Hoi An is one of those places that captures travelers’ imaginations. It’s on every tourist’s itinerary, and for good reason. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or just looking to relax, the town has something for everyone.
Number 1: Classic tourist activities
Faryl believes that when you visit Hoi An, you should try all the classic tourist experiences—even the cheesy ones. Take a boat ride along the Thu Bon River, light a lantern, and watch it float away. Spin around in a basket boat while someone sings karaoke at full volume. It might sound over the top, but that’s part of the fun. Hoi An is the kind of place where you lean into the charm rather than try to avoid it.
Number 2: Try the food
One of the best ways to experience Hoi An is through its food. Central Vietnamese cuisine is fresh, flavorful, and unique. Learning to make dishes like “cao lầu” or “bánh xèo” gives you a deeper appreciation for the local ingredients and cooking techniques.
Number 3: Local Cafes
One of the best things about Hoi An is that you don’t have to go far to find something amazing. A great tip for visitors is to check out the new cafes and restaurants popping up in the middle of the rice paddies. Faryl recommended Roving Chill House, a floating platform surrounded by lush green fields. It’s the perfect place to relax, take in the view, and watch farmers at work. The sunset here is absolutely stunning.
Number 4: An Bang Beach
An Bang Beach is another must-visit. When I first went in 2015, there was only one bar. Now, there are several, offering great food, drinks, and sun loungers right on the sand.
If you’re staying in Hoi An’s old town, one of the best ways to get to An Bang Beach is by bicycle. It’s only about a 15-minute ride, mostly flat, and takes you through some beautiful rice fields. You’ll see farmers working, water buffalo grazing, and yes—there’s even a guy who lets you take photos sitting on his buffalo.
Number 5: Mỹ Sơn Temple experience
Beyond the old town, there are hidden gems worth exploring. Mỹ Sơn Sanctuary, an ancient Cham temple complex, is a must-visit. It’s similar to Angkor Wat but without the massive crowds. The site is filled with centuries-old ruins, some still bearing the scars of war, with bomb craters visible throughout. Walking through the temples, it’s impossible not to think about the people who once worshiped there over 1,200 years ago.
Getting to Mỹ Sơn is an adventure in itself. The drive takes you through small villages and scenic countryside, offering glimpses of daily life that most tourists don’t see.
Number 6: Hoi An Historic Charm
Hoi An isn’t just a pretty town with lanterns and rivers—it’s a place shaped by centuries of history. Faryl explained that over the years, the city had been a key trading hub, attracting settlers from Japan, China, and later, the French. These cultural influences can still be seen today, from the famous Japanese Bridge to the vibrant Chinese lanterns that light up the streets.
One interesting fact I learned was that the yellow-painted buildings in the old town were actually a requirement set by the French. They wanted to distinguish their colonial structures from the rest. It’s a small detail, but it adds to the unique character of Hoi An.
Number 7: Hoi An’s Nightlife
Hoi An might be known for its peaceful charm, but when the sun goes down, the town comes alive.
If you’re in the mood to let loose, Tiger Tiger is the place to go. It’s packed with gap-year backpackers dancing on tables to top 40 hits. It’s loud, it’s rowdy, and yes—it’s cheesy, but also a lot of fun.
If you’re after something more refined, Market Bar is a fantastic option. Located on top of the central market, it offers great drinks, amazing people-watching, and a relaxed atmosphere. Their happy hour is excellent, and they serve huge goblets of gin infused with fresh herbs and fruits. Another standout is Mezcal, a Mexican-inspired cocktail bar with an extensive selection of agave spirits and tequila tastings.
Number 8: Exploring the Countryside
While Hoi An itself is stunning, the surrounding countryside is just as special. Faryl recommended a trip to Bạch Mã National Park, located between Da Nang and Huế. It’s a protected area dedicated to conservation, especially for bird species that were overhunted or affected by Agent Orange during the war. The hike to the top of the mountain offers incredible views, but if hiking isn’t your thing, there are also golf carts that take visitors around.
For Faryl, the beauty of Hoi An isn’t just in the town itself—it’s in the landscapes just outside of it. Whether it’s the beach, the rice paddies, or the mountains, there’s always something breathtaking to see.
Conclusion
Talking to Faryl, it was clear why so many people come to Hoi An for a short visit and end up staying for years. Hoi An is one of those places that stays with you long after you leave. It has everything—a rich history, stunning landscapes, incredible food, and a nightlife scene that offers both wild nights and relaxed cocktails.
If you’re planning a trip to Vietnam, make sure Hoi An is on your list. And if you find yourself falling in love with it—well, you wouldn’t be the first.
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