Hanoi is a city that blends history, culture, and modern development in a way that makes it truly unique.
If you’re seeking some recommendations when exploring Hanoi, let Claire Simpson, a long-time Hanoi resident, and former tour guide, help you.
We discuss how tourism in Hanoi has changed over the years, and we cover the best things to do in Hanoi, from exploring Train Street and indulging in street food tours.
Why Claire Stayed in Vietnam
When Claire first came to Vietnam, she had no idea she’d end up staying for years. Like many of us, she arrived with a short-term plan but quickly realized that Vietnam had other ideas.
At first, her decision to return was influenced by a person she met while traveling. She booked a one-way ticket back to Hanoi with no savings, hoping for a new beginning. In hindsight, she admitted it was a bit reckless, but she managed to land a job at a hostel as a tour guide. That job allowed her to explore the city, meet new people, and learn about Hanoi quickly. She spent six months leading pub crawls, walking tours, and trips to Halong Bay, experiencing the country in a way that most travelers never do.
Even after her initial reason for coming back didn’t work out, she found herself falling in love with Vietnam for different reasons—the people, the food, and the energy of the country. Unlike her time in the UK, where things felt a bit stagnant, Hanoi was full of life. It was exciting, unpredictable, and fun in a way that made her feel like she was making up for lost time.
She also admitted that she hadn’t done much research before moving back. She didn’t know how cold Hanoi could get in the winter, hadn’t considered long-term plans, and wasn’t even aware of the city’s pollution levels. But somehow, despite all of that, it worked out. Nine years later, she’s still here, proof that sometimes the best decisions are the ones we make on impulse.
Now, she runs the Gluten-Free Hanoi Instagram page, which has grown into a helpful resource for others looking for safe, delicious food in the city. She even won Influencer of the Year in the People’s Pick Awards. Looking back, she never could have imagined that a spontaneous decision to come back to Vietnam would shape her life in such a meaningful way.
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Exploring Halong Bay
When Claire worked as a tour guide, she spent a lot of time in Halong Bay—probably more than most people ever will. She used to take tourists from Hanoi to Hai Phong, then across to Cat Ba Island before boarding boats that would take them out into the bay.
Halong Bay is famous for its towering limestone karsts rising from calm, emerald waters. Travelers can kayak, visit floating fishing villages, and take in the peaceful contrast to Hanoi’s chaos. Claire admitted that, after going so many times, she started to take it for granted. But when her mum came to visit, she saw the magic of the place again through fresh eyes. Now, as a mum herself, she looks forward to taking her son there one day.
How Hanoi Has Changed Over the Years
Over the years, Hanoi has changed—especially after COVID. Claire noticed that before the pandemic, most tourists were young backpackers, typically between 18 and 25 years old. Back when she worked at the hostel, she often felt “ancient” at 28, with 18-year-olds joking about how close she was to 30.
But during COVID, when Vietnam’s borders were closed, something interesting happened—the locals reclaimed the area. Without tourists, the place felt more traditional, with more street food stalls and local markets popping up.
Now, tourism is back, but Hanoi continues to evolve. Claire lives in Tay Ho, which is known as an expat district, though plenty of locals live there too. She’s watched as the area has rapidly developed, with high-rise buildings going up everywhere. What used to be a neighborhood full of trees and older, traditional houses now has a growing skyline of modern apartments.
Pros and Cons in Hanoi
Like any city that’s expanding, there are pros and cons. On the good side, there are more restaurants, bars, and entertainment options, which is great for both locals and expats. The city is adapting to the needs of its growing population, making it a more convenient place to live.
On the downside, the cost of living has gone up. Claire used to rent a two-bedroom house for 12 million VND (about $500 USD). Now, her two-bedroom apartment costs 17 million VND. While that’s still affordable compared to Western cities, wages in Hanoi haven’t risen at the same pace, making it harder for some to keep up.
There’s also the question of how much of Hanoi’s charm is being lost. Claire mentioned a famous dragon sculpture near West Lake—five years ago, you could see mostly low-rise buildings through it. Now, a huge black glass tower dominates the view. At night, bright lights from new buildings shine across the lake, giving the city a different feel.
5 Must Do Things In Hanoi
Hanoi is a city full of history, culture, and incredible food. If you only have two days to explore, there’s plenty to see and do. Claire helped me put together the perfect itinerary that includes a mix of classic tourist attractions, local food experiences, and a few hidden gems.
1. Train Street
Start your day with a visit to Train Street, one of Hanoi’s most famous (and slightly dangerous) attractions. A narrow street lined with cafés runs right along an active train track.
At certain times of the day, a train rushes through, passing just inches from tables and chairs. It’s a surreal experience, and while it was closed for a while due to safety concerns (thanks to some reckless Instagrammers), it has since reopened with stricter regulations.
Grab a coffee, find a safe spot, and watch the train thunder past—it’s one of those only-in-Vietnam experiences.
2. Street Food Tour
No trip to Hanoi is complete without exploring its incredible food scene. The best way to do this? A street food tour. Hanoi’s cuisine is unique, and trying it in the city’s chaotic streets makes it even better.
Some must-try dishes include:
- Bun Cha – Grilled pork served with rice noodles and fresh herbs, made famous worldwide after Obama and Anthony Bourdain ate it together in Hanoi.
- Banh Cuon – Thin steamed rice rolls filled with minced pork and wood ear mushrooms, served with a light fish sauce.
- Bun Dau Mam Tom – A dish of fried tofu, noodles, and fresh herbs served with a fermented shrimp paste dipping sauce. (You can swap out the shrimp paste for fish sauce if the smell is too much!)
- Egg Coffee & Salted Coffee – Hanoi’s famous creamy egg coffee is a must-try, and salted coffee is the latest trend—think of it as a Vietnamese twist on salted caramel.
At some point in your trip, you might want to check out Bun Cha Obama—the restaurant where Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain famously had Bun Cha. The table they ate at is now preserved under glass, and while some say it’s not the best Bun Cha in Hanoi, it has certainly become a must-visit spot.
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3. Bia Hoi Experience
This locally brewed beer is super cheap, —usually around 3% alcohol—so you can drink a few without getting too drunk. It’s a social experience where locals, expats, and travelers all gather around plastic stools to enjoy a cold beer and some simple but delicious snacks.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also try Vodka Hanoi, a local spirit that’s popular in these beer joints. But beware of the “Chris Pour”—Claire’s friend, Chris, is known for filling half a glass with vodka and convincing people to drink it!
4. Cultural & Historical Sites
Hanoi is Vietnam’s capital and the cultural and political heart of the country. With a history that spans over a thousand years, the city is filled with important landmarks that tell the story of Vietnam’s past. If you want to understand more about the country’s history, these are the must-visit sites in Hanoi.
- Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton) – A former prison used during the French colonial period and later during the Vietnam War, where U.S. Senator John McCain was held.
- Vietnamese Women’s Museum – A fascinating look at the role of women in Vietnamese society, from historical warriors to modern entrepreneurs.
- Vietnam Museum of Ethnology – If you’re interested in Vietnam’s diverse ethnic groups, this museum showcases their traditional clothing, tools, and lifestyles.
- Bat Trang Ceramic Village – A short trip outside the city, this village is famous for its handmade ceramics. You can see artisans at work, try making your own pottery, and buy some unique souvenirs.
Extra Recommendations:
- The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long: A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long was the political center of Vietnam for over a thousand years.
- The Temple of Literature: Built in 1070, the Temple of Literature is Vietnam’s first university and a tribute to Confucius and scholars.
- The Vietnam Military History Museum: For those interested in Vietnam’s military past, this museum offers an in-depth look at the country’s wars against the French, the Americans, and the Chinese.
5. Hidden Bars & Rooftop Views
For your final night in Hanoi, explore some of the city’s quieter spots away from the busy tourist areas. Chuong Duong Do is a great area to visit, offering lakeside bars and a more laid-back atmosphere.
Claire recommended Lang Thang, a tiny cocktail bar with handwritten menus and a cozy vibe. If you prefer a high-up view of the city, check out one of Hanoi’s rooftop bars—perfect for a relaxed drink to end your trip.
Looking for craft beers and cocktails in Saigon? Check these out!
Conclusion
If you’re a foodie, a history lover, or just someone looking for a vibrant place to explore, Hanoi has it all. Take the time to visit its historic sites, try its famous street food, and experience the energy of this ever-changing city.
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