This is our third episode in Phong Nha, and joining me on this adventure is Hữu, our local tour guide. Over the next three days, we trekked through the jungle, crossed rivers, and explored some of Vietnam’s most incredible caves.
We talked about the rise of tourism, how it has transformed the lives of local people, and the incredible impact of Sơn Đoòng Cave, the world’s largest cave. Once just a quiet farming area, Phong Nha is now a must-visit destination for adventure seekers. But how did it all happen? And what does it mean for the people who live here?
Meet Hữu: The King of the Jungle in Phong Nha
Hữu (pronounced whoo-oo) grew up in Phong Nha and knows the jungle like the back of his hand. He’s been doing this for years, leading tourists through the thick forests, crossing rivers, and exploring caves. When I asked if he ever got bored of it, he laughed and said no—he loves his job. Every tour is a chance to meet new people, learn from them, and share the beauty of his homeland.
Hữu didn’t always know he would end up doing this. Like many locals, he grew up seeing Phong Nha as just home, not realizing how special it was. Before tourism took off, job opportunities were limited. If he hadn’t learned English, he would have been farming—growing rice, cassava, peanuts, and corn.
It was the most common way to make a living. Others turned to logging or even hunting in the jungle, anything to earn money. Some even risked their lives collecting metal from unexploded bombs left over from the war, selling the scraps for a bit of income.
Learning English changed everything for him. He saw tourism growing in Phong Nha and realized that speaking English could open doors. So, he went to university in Dong Hoi in 2018 to study foreign languages. It wasn’t easy at first—English was difficult, and most locals didn’t speak it fluently. But a high school teacher inspired him to keep going, and he eventually fell in love with the language.
Now, he’s one of the expert guides at Oxalis Adventures, leading people like me through the stunning landscapes of Phong Nha. He’s done this tour over a hundred times, but he still finds it exciting. For him, every trip is a chance to show people how beautiful Vietnam is.
Listen More about Vietnamese stories: From Vietnam Village Life to Saigon – A Young Vietnamese Man’s Growth
Bomb Explosion in Phong Nha
One of the most shocking things we talked about was the issue of unexploded bombs in the area. During the war, massive amounts of bombs were dropped here, and many still remain buried in the ground.
In the past, farmers would accidentally step on them, leading to the deadly explosion. It’s less common now, thanks to efforts from organizations like MAG, a German non-profit that helps clear the bombs. But even today, there are still dangerous areas.
With limited ways to earn a living, some people saw the metal from these bombs as a source of income. They would search for them, dig them up, and strip them for valuable materials like steel and dynamite.
It was an incredibly dangerous job. Many people were killed or seriously injured when the bombs exploded. Hữu told me that some were lucky enough to survive but lost limbs—hands, legs, and sometimes even worse. And yet, they kept doing it because they had no other choice. It was illegal, but desperation drove them to take the risk.
The Transformation of Phong Nha Through Tourism
Phong Nha wasn’t always the tourist attraction as it is today. Before tourism took off, the area was mostly known for a few public caves like Phong Nha Cave and Paradise Cave. Visitors would come during the day, take a quick tour, and then leave, usually heading back to Dong Hoi City where there were more accommodation options. Hardly anyone stayed overnight in Phong Nha because there weren’t many homestays, hotels, or even restaurants catering to tourists. That has completely changed. Over the years, Phong Nha has transformed into a major destination for adventure tourism. Now, the area is full of homestays, hostels, and even luxury villas.
This shift has made a huge difference in the lives of the people here. Instead of relying only on farming or other difficult jobs, many locals have found work in tourism. They run homestays, work as guides, operate small restaurants, or take part in eco-tourism projects. Companies like Oxalis Adventures have created job opportunities that didn’t exist before, allowing more people to earn a stable income.
His insights were the same as Ben Mitchell’s, the guy from Phong Nha farm stay, he had contributed a lot to the tourism there for the past 20 years.
Listen to our conversation during a village walk: Explore Phong Nha with Ben Mitchell
Son Doong Cave Discovery: The Largest Cave In The World
Sơn Đoòng Cave, the largest cave in the world, was officially discovered in 2008, but the story behind it goes much further back.
He told me that local people had actually known about the cave for decades. In 1990, a man named Hồ Khanh stumbled upon it while looking for shelter from the rain. He noticed the strong wind rushing out of the cave entrance, but at the time, he didn’t think much of it and moved on.
Years later, when cave experts came to Phong Nha in search of new cave systems, Hồ Khanh remembered the place and led them there. In 2008, a British expedition team explored and mapped the cave, revealing its massive chambers and underground jungle. It took them a full year to survey the site, and what they found was beyond imagination—an enormous cave large enough to fit entire skyscrapers inside.
Even with the high demand, the cave remains protected. Instead of increasing visitor numbers, the company carefully manages the tours to ensure that the cave has time to recover between trips. It’s incredible to see how they’ve prioritized conservation from the start, ensuring that future generations will still be able to experience its natural wonder.
Sơn Đoòng isn’t just a cave—it’s a reminder of how much Phong Nha has changed. What was once an unknown, hidden wonder is now a symbol of Vietnam’s natural beauty and a destination for explorers from around the world.
The Challenge of Caving: Fitness, Adventure, and Pushing Limits
After making it through the first river crossing – something everyone had been dreading – I asked Hữu if we were done with the water. He just laughed and said there was more to come after lunch. That was the thing about this trip – just when you thought you had conquered one challenge, another one was waiting.
We kept moving toward our next stop, and I asked him more about Sơn Đoòng Cave. He explained that when the tours first started, only 300 people were allowed per year. Now, they’ve expanded to 1,000, but they keep the numbers low to preserve the cave’s natural state. The cave is so massive it has its own weather system, with clouds forming inside. Hữu told me the biggest chamber is 200 meters high and 160 meters wide—large enough to fit a Boeing airplane inside. It’s impossible to truly grasp the scale of it without seeing it in person.
Becoming a guide for Sơn Đoòng isn’t easy either. Hữu, despite being an experienced guide for several years, still has to train for at least another year and a half before he qualifies. There are only seven or eight certified guides for the Sơn Đoòng tour, along with a team of safety specialists who have undergone extensive training. Because the tour lasts four days and three nights, it requires a full support team—including porters, cooks, and safety staff—bringing the total group size to around 35 people for just 10 tourists.
Trekking Tour In Phong Nha
Talking back to our tour, I asked him about the toughest parts of our trek. He mentioned the final big hill on the third day—a 200-meter climb at a 45-degree angle. That sounded brutal. I had done a similar climb in Laos, which was even steeper, and that had taken about an hour. Knowing what was ahead, I realized I needed to pick up my pace.
One of the things that impressed me most was how well-organized the tour was. Before you can even book a spot, you have to fill out a fitness assessment. There are six levels, and this trek was a level three – meaning you needed to be moderately fit. After filling out the form, a sales consultant calls to verify your answers and make sure you’re not exaggerating your fitness level.
Of course, some people still end up struggling. In the past, there was no fitness screening, and people could book tours without proving they were physically capable. This led to situations where people couldn’t continue and had to be sent back mid-tour. Hữu said it’s never gotten to the point where someone had to be “kicked off” a tour, but there have been cases where guests were too exhausted or got injured and had to be taken back to the base.
We only had to carry essentials like helmets, water bottles, and dry bags for equipment. The porters took all the heavy stuff ahead—dry clothes, sleeping gear, and food for the campsite. It was amazing to see how everything was carefully planned, allowing us to focus on the adventure itself.
Conclusion
Talking with Hữu gave me a deeper insight into this incredible place and the people who call it home.
Phong Nha isn’t just about breathtaking caves and jungle treks—it’s a region that has undergone massive change, where tourism has created new opportunities and transformed lives. But with that growth comes the responsibility to protect its natural beauty.
And our adventure isn’t over yet! In the next episodes, we’ll be exploring some of the most stunning caves in Phong Nha. So if you love adventure and want to see more of Vietnam’s hidden gems, stay tuned for what’s coming next!