I take a tourist to the oldest coffee shop in Ho Chi Minh City 

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Today, we’re starting off in District 4, a place that once had a reputation as the most dangerous district in Saigon. Years ago, it was infamous for its gangsters and crime, but those days are long gone.

In this episode, I was going to meet someone very special—Charlotte Lewis West, a podcast strategist who works with me at Seven Million Bikes Podcasts. This is the first time we’re meeting in person after connecting online, and I’m excited to show her around Saigon.

It was a day of great coffee, delicious food, and a glimpse into Saigon’s vibrant streets. Let’s get started!

Motorbike Experience

I was really excited to meet Charlotte in person for the first time. We had only talked online before, so this was a big moment. I met her in District 4, which I joked about being the “most dangerous district” in Saigon. Of course, it wasn’t really dangerous anymore, as I had explained earlier. It used to be, but things had changed. What made District 4 stand out now was how crowded it was—one of the most densely packed areas in the city.

Charlotte said it felt very different from Singapore, and I could see why. She said it had been 15 years since the last time she was in Vietnam, so I told her things must feel both very different and somewhat the same. 

I wanted to take her to Cheo Leo, the oldest coffee shop in Saigon. I had only been there once, eight years ago, and I remembered the coffee being made in such a unique way—hot water poured through a stocking to brew the coffee. It was a method from wartime, and the coffee tasted incredibly strong. The first time I tried it, it was so strong I felt sick afterward! But now that I was used to Vietnamese coffee, I wasn’t sure if it would have the same effect.

I planned for us to ride through the busy streets, cross the bridge into District 3, and then explore a bit of District 1. Afterward, we would stop at Newland Bakery, the very first place I ate when I arrived in Saigon. I thought it would be a great way to show her some of my favorite spots while experiencing the energy of the city.

Charlotte said she had already noticed something about crossing the roads in Saigon—you just had to go for it! I laughed and agreed, asking if she remembered that from her first visit. She said she did. Coming from New Zealand, the roads here felt overwhelming at first, but eventually, you just learn to walk steadily, and everything works out.

We talked more about the narrow laneways in District 4, and I mentioned how I used to live there. I was used to navigating them, even though they could feel intimidating if you didn’t know where they led. Charlotte asked how I became so confident driving in such conditions. I explained that it was just practice. I used to ride a Vespa in university and had driven bikes in places like Thailand and Bali before. But in Saigon, it took me a few months to get comfortable on a bike. I described it like flowing water—you just have to go with the flow and not overthink it.

Cheo Leo

We finally found Cheo Leo, the oldest coffee shop in Saigon, and I was really hoping it was open. Luckily, it was, but there was a small issue—they didn’t allow pets, probably because the dogs next door were making a lot of noise. Poor Biscuit had to stay outside, but it was okay.

We decided to sit outside and order some takeaway iced coffees with milk. While waiting, the coffee guy showed me how they prepared the coffee. He explained that the water is stored in large pots, sometimes for a whole day, to keep it warm and ready for brewing. The coffee beans they use are from Dak Lak, a region in Vietnam’s Central Highlands, which is famous for its coffee.

I found it fascinating and asked Charlotte to go in and have a look since she hadn’t been there before. The coffee guy explained to her how they make their signature “net coffee.” They use a net filter to brew the coffee, keeping it in a pot all day to maintain its heat and concentrate the flavor. The result is a strong, unique coffee unlike anything else.

He also shared some history about the shop. It’s been around for about 85 years and has been passed down through the family for generations. These days, the process is slightly modernized—they prepare most of the coffee in advance and finish it when customers order. Back when I first visited eight years ago, we could watch the entire process, which was pretty cool.

Charlotte thanked him and mentioned that she might come back with her husband and book a tour to see everything in more detail. It was such a nice experience, and even though it wasn’t the same as my first visit, the coffee and the history of the place still made it special.

Food – Western and Asian

After leaving Cheo Leo, we decided to grab some food. Charlotte and I headed to Như Lan Bakery, which held a lot of memories for me. It was the first place Adri and I visited when we came to Vietnam, along with Adri’s sister and her partner. The place hadn’t changed much, and it was nice to be back.

Charlotte was amazed at the size of the bread, calling it enormous. It only cost 15,000 VND, which I explained was about one New Zealand dollar. I wasn’t sure how to compare the price, though, because I’d never seen bread that size before.

We sat down and started talking about how I pick good places to eat. My rule was simple—the rougher the spot, the better the food. Not everyone agreed with me, but it had worked so far. Charlotte asked what I usually ordered, and I admitted it had been about eight years since I’d last been there, so I wasn’t sure what to get.

As we ate, we talked about Vietnamese food. Charlotte asked if there were any traditional dishes I didn’t like, and I admitted I wasn’t a fan of pho. I called it a “gateway food” for all the other amazing dishes here, like bún thịt nướng or phá lấu, but I didn’t eat it often. I also mentioned that I wasn’t much of a soup person in general.

We moved on to discussing cooking at home versus eating out. I told Charlotte that Adri and I cooked more than most expats we knew, though we still ate out a lot because it was so cheap in Vietnam. Back in New Zealand, eating out was a treat because it was expensive, but here it was easy to do regularly. Adri was the one who cooked most of our meals, and she was great at it.

We also joked about eating hot soup in such a warm country. It always amazed me how quickly Vietnamese people could finish their bowls of soup, while I’d barely made a dent. Charlotte shared a similar experience from Singapore, where eating soup in the heat didn’t seem to cool you down despite what people said.

Finally, we talked about the differences between Western and Asian food preferences. Westerners, like me, often avoid fatty or chewy bits in meat, while in Asia, texture seems to be a big part of the appeal. Charlotte noted how common chicken feet were in Vietnam. I admitted I’d never tried them and didn’t plan to, even though they were so popular.

Conclusion

I was so glad I got to share it with Charlotte. Saigon has a way of surprising you—its vibrant chaos, hidden gems, and unforgettable flavors leave a lasting impression. Sharing these experiences with someone new, seeing the city through their eyes, makes it even more special.

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