It’s Niall again, and joining me in this episode is my wife, Adrie. We headed for brunch in Thao Dien to try the Oriental Snapper as recommended by Mischa Smith!
Saigon Changes – An 8 years Expat Reflection
Last weekend, Adrie and I decided to head out for brunch in Thao Dien. I turned to Biscuit and asked, “Are you excited? We’re heading out for brunch.” As we hopped on our bikes, I started reflecting on how much Saigon had changed over the years.
Vehicles
When we first arrived here eight years ago, the streets were dominated by motorbikes. It felt like the whole city was in constant motion, with bikes zipping around every corner. Cars were few and far between. But now? It’s a different story altogether. The number of cars on the roads has exploded. The entire driving experience has shifted.
Infrastructure and Roads
One of the first big changes we noticed back then was the tunnel that takes you from our side of the city directly into District 1. That tunnel had already been built when we moved here, but I remember seeing old pictures of what it was like before. Without the tunnel, it was a different world.
As I was sharing these thoughts, something jolted us back into the present—Adrie had to slam on the brakes to avoid hitting a little puppy crossing the road. It wasn’t too close of a call, but for a second, I wasn’t sure which way the puppy was going to go. That’s Saigon for you—you always have to be ready for the unexpected, whether it’s a dog, a bike, or a car coming out of nowhere.
After that little scare, I continued talking to Adrie about the old days. I mentioned how, before the tunnel, there was actually a ferry that people would take across the river. They’d line up with their bikes, pack onto the ferry, and cross over. It was slow, and it definitely wasn’t efficient, but it was a part of the experience. That ferry is long gone now, replaced by the tunnel, and the trip is so much faster these days. But sometimes I wonder if we’ve lost a bit of the old charm that came with the slower pace.
As we rode along, I pointed out how much has changed since we arrived. Roads that used to be one-way streets are now multi-lane avenues. Even a crossroad in Binh Thanh that used to be complete chaos—with traffic lights that no one really followed—has been transformed into something a bit more orderly. There are still roundabouts that get built painfully slowly, but hey, that’s not unique to Vietnam. Every city seems to take its time with public works projects.
At one point, we were driving down a street that’s now three lanes wide in both directions. I wasn’t sure if it had always been like that, but it certainly felt new. Adrie and I had just been talking about how the whole system for cars and bikes feels easier now. There’s way less honking than there used to be. And of course, right as I said that, Adrie honked her bike. Perfect timing. We both laughed. Still, the honking from cars has decreased noticeably, which says a lot about how much more organized the streets have become.
We were approaching an area that, just two weeks ago, had been a chaotic roundabout with bikes flying through in all directions. But now, there were actual traffic lights. It’s these little changes that really stand out. Saigon, as wild and unpredictable as it can be, is slowly becoming more orderly.
That’s not to say it’s perfectly organized by Western standards. It’s still Saigon, after all. You’ve got bikes going the wrong way, unexpected traffic moves, and moments of pure chaos. But overall, it’s nowhere near as hectic as it used to be. And while that’s great for day-to-day convenience, part of me misses the craziness that once defined the city. That sense of pure, unfiltered chaos was part of Saigon’s charm.
Brunch at WKND
As we reached our destination, WKND, I reflected on how much the place has evolved. What used to be a sleepy, dusty road has now turned into a bustling street lined with shops and restaurants. I remember when there was barely anything on Xuan Thuy – just a couple of small bars and cafés. Now, it’s practically a high street. Places like High School have popped up, along with new eateries and nightclubs. It’s incredible to think about how much has changed in just a few short years.
At WKND, we ordered our food and sat back to relax. I finally got the Oriental Snapper as recommended by Mischa in our podcast on the best Bloody Marys in Saigon, while Adrie went for a zucchini corn fritter with mozzarella. They looked delicious. Adrie’s fritter was piled with buffalo mozzarella and tomato stew. But as I started digging into my meal, I kind of made a mess of it. That didn’t stop it from tasting amazing, though! I joked about it, but Adrie’s dish looked much more presentable, and we both enjoyed the flavors.
Conclusion – Living In A Developing City
After brunch, we hopped back on the bike, recharged, and ready to continue exploring this ever-changing city. Saigon may be more organized now, but it’ll always hold that sense of adventure for me, no matter how many roads they widen or tunnels they build.
There’s something incredibly fascinating about living in a developing country like Vietnam. The rapid pace of change is palpable, and you can actually witness the transformation unfolding right before your eyes.
It’s impressive to see how Saigon has grown, making it easier to get around and safer for everyone. The modernization of infrastructure is one of those things you don’t always notice in the moment, but when you look back over the years, the progress is undeniable.
If you’re interested in Saigon and Vietnam too, stay tuned and wait for our next episode. Subscribe and be part of the community here.